While in Peterborough a few weekends ago giving the White Flower appeal at Fr Bruce Burbidge's parish, I had a free afternoon and headed into town to do some shopping and visit the city's Saxon cathedral. Founded in the Saxon period, the architecture is mainly Norman following a rebuild in the 12th century. Along with Durham and Ely Cathedrals, it is one of the most important 12th century buildings in England to have remained largely intact, despite extensions, restorations and dissolutions. It is the burial place of Katherine of Aragon and the former home of Mary Queen of Scots' body. Unfortunately, I wasn't particularly impressed by the place.First of all, it is probably the most Protestant place I've been to in England. People tell me Westminster Cathedral is pretty Protestant, but I've not been inside there as yet. At Peterborough, the main indicator was a quote from the guide book:
During Cromwell's Commonwealth...cathedrals were abolished. A famous eyewitnnes account survives, describing the desecration of Peterborough Cathedral by Parliamentarian soldiers in 1643. Motivated by Puritanism they to some extent purified the building, for it has hardly any of the ostentatious monuments cluttering other cathedrals, and by destroying the stained glass they allowed God's light to shine on the beautiful Barnack stone.
Another clue is the reference to relics on one of the display boards explaining the history of the place. The arm of St Oswald (633-642) and the bloodstained shirt and stone flag of St Thomas Becket, brought in 1777, are just two sets of relics to have been kept in the cathedral. But on this display board (unfortunately I can't remember the exact quote) there was some reference to the "medieval" Christian ritual of venerating relics. Arrrgghhhamm...we still do this to bring us closer to Christ through his saints!
To be honest, my impression of the place was further tinted by my visit experience. Many of the volunteers were unwelcoming and looked rather depressed. Then a batty and downright rude elderly volunteer made a b-line for me as I wandered into the second half of the cathedral.
"Are you here for Evensong," she asked abruptly. "Not particularly - just here for a look around," I said. "Then please leave this area. You're not allowed in this part during Evensong." At this point she shoved me away and closed a gate. I couldn't believe it. It's not as if the aisle I wanted to walk down would have meant me interrupting a very average Evensong in the choir.
I wandered towards the back of the church and sat down to read the guidebook and the display boards. Then, a few moments later I walked towards the "forbidden area" again. Before I got anywhere near it, another, younger woman walked several yards straight for me to tell me I couldn't go any further. At this point I promptly said "okay" and walked out of the place, hopefully for the last time. It meant I missed the two main attractions, the grave and former grave of Katherine of Aragon and Mary Queen of Scots. But, in fact, I actually enjoyed the pleasant surroundings of the minister yard more than the inside of the thirteen-and-a-half centuries old place of worship.
As one of Fr Bruce's parishioners said at Mass later that evening when I told him about my experience: "That's the Church of England for you."
4 comments:
Your experience reminds me of my one and only visit to Westminster Abbey. I was a bit late geting there, having taken the wrong bus, and the abbey was closing for the day except for those who were attending Evensong.
I did attend Evensong (which on that evening was only recited) then afterward in Henry VII's Chapel with a mix of priests, nuns and Lay folk (Anglican and Roman Catholic) took part in the Office of Our Lady of Pew. We then processed to the Shrine of Our Lady of Pew itself.
There a verger who was clearly devoted to Our Lady broke the rules for me and allowed me to take a picture of the Shrine.
That is also the Church of England for you!
Perhaps Fr. Bruce's parishioner shouldn't tar everyone with the same brush!
I have found staff at both Westminster Abbey and Peterborough Cathedral less than welcoming. There is an admission charge of £12 at Westminster Abbey.
Very good to meet you at Fr Tim's party. And glad that you now know I'm not Delia Smith!
Now I've discovered your blog, I'll look forward to finding out more about the Forty Martyrs.
I hope Hull won on Saturday!
God Bless.
Those churches which are heavy tourist draws do charge admission for tourists as opposed to church goers. The wear and tear brought about by tourists on these ancient sites is quite surprising and expensive to repair. At Stonehenge one can no longer even enter the circle because the stones are wearing too thin.
In some of the cathedals e.g. Yorkminster, a priest mounts the pulpit at regular frequent intervals to say a few prayers as a reminder to the tourists that they are indeed in a church.
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